Edisto Island: Turtles, Clams and Sausage

Life as a Loggerhead turtle isn’t so easy. For starters, only about ten percent of laid eggs will survive to replenish the population. Predators of eggs include dogs, raccoons, seabirds and others.

   The eggs and resulting turtles are protected, to the extent possible, by local, state and federal laws, as well as by voluntary citizen patrols. Fines up to $20,000 can result from any interference.

If you have beachfront home on Edisto Island, SC, you must turn out any lights showing on the beach and drape any windows, May through October. The lights confuse the hatchlings and they can’t find their way to the ocean.

   Edisto is a barrier island located about an hour south of Charleston, SC. As recently as 2004 it was described as fairly laid back and off the beaten path, unlike more popular spots like Hilton Head. Whether that still holds true, I don’t know.

   What drew my attention to Edisto is the cookbook, Cooking in the Low Country from The Old Post Office Restaurant,
by Jane and Michael Stern (authors of a series of popular Roadfood cookbooks), published in 2004. Chef Philip Bardin co-authored the book.

   There once was an old post office, combined with a general store, but the restaurant is a newer structure, home of relics from the old place.

   The original owners developed it despite dire predictions from unbelievers who thought the setting too remote. But the place attracted – should I say earned the attention of -- food writers and then came the crowds. Why the original owners packed it in, I don’t know.

   A reviewer on Amazon notes: “Sadly, I recently learned that Chef Bardin has left Edisto for other opportunities. The book is out of print and impossible to find locally.” (It is, though, available new and used on Amazon where I found my copy, and as you’ll see in what follows, Chef Bardin is back on the island).

   Cookbook author Michael Stern confirmed that the restaurant changed hands and provided a link to the new eatery. It looks as though the change took place in 2007.

  Stern also told me that Chef Bardin, co-author of the book with the Sterns, joined in creation of a new restaurant, Ella & Ollie’s, announced in 2016. “I haven't been there yet, but am looking forward to a visit,” Stern said.

   Apparently that eatery suffered a setback when Hurricane Matthew smashed into the island but is open again.

   A visit to the new Old Post Office site informs that Cherry J. Smalls, sous chef under Bardin, is now executive chef. With a reputation as best cook on the island, she is a trail-blazing minority woman of extensive restaurant experience.

   Smalls is creator of Cherry’s Clam and Sausage Chowder, a stewy dish indeed. Here is a recipe from Epicurious that is in many ways similar.

   That recipe does not include the cubed potatoes, red and yellow sliced peppers, thyme and oregano called for in Cherry’s version. And the Epicurious recipe calls for pepper flakes rather than 3T hot sauce.

   Elsewhere I have seen addition of corn, white wine and garlic to similar clam and sausage dishes.

   Many thanks to the Sterns for their fine series of books. I intend to have look at more of their work and will file reports.