Monday, October 23, 2017

Got Duck? Crab? Possum? Make Some Gumbo

According to “The Southern and Southwestern Cookbook,” a booklet issued by the Culinary Arts Institute, Gumbo “is a Choctaw Indian word for okra …” There is some dispute. Many sources say it is an African word of the same meaning, okra. You can find support for either and for both.
   Some say you cannot have gumbo without okra, and that's too bad because some of us are not so wild about that particular vegie. Here is a chicken, Andouille and oyster gumbo from Epicurous, notable for no mention of okra.
   Here's a good, basic gumbo recipe. It's made with chicken and sausage. I like andouille sausage; it may be a bit hot for some tastes and I've used kielbasa and other milder sausages. There are those who feel the sausage overpowers the other ingredients and so substitute ham, or leave it out.
   There are of course so many variants for gumbo. Try it with duck or crab or possum. Thing is, gumbo is good stuff and worth experimenting with to find the recipe that's right for you. Once you get it right, hang on to that recipe! It'll become an heirloom.
   I find Chef John Folse’s recipes invariably trustworthy, though this one may be for a larger quantity than desired, .
  As for those who leave out the okra, you need to thicken your gumbo one way or another. That's where file' -- ground sassafras -- comes in. It's both a thickener and a flavoring. There are some health concerns about sassafras but they apparently don't apply to the leaves -- you'll find a lot of tough, healthy old Cajuns in bayou country who will testify to that. File' is added at the last of cooking.
   Interestingly this site offers a gallon of chicken and Andouille gumbo, mail order. It is a source for many hard to find Cajun products, I could not find a price list but you can call.

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