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| Better to eat than be eaten by! |
My dear grandmother was a queen of the traditional kitchen
but she was a prude when it came to catfish. They were not allowed in her kitchen. There were several likely reasons for
that and I will get to them, but first let’s talk man-eating, venomous catfish.
Seriously? Yes indeed. Catfish credited with
gobbling humans include the Piraiba of the Amazon, weighing up to 400 pounds, said
to have killed several unfortunates. And there are also eyewitness reports,
considered credible, of three deaths from attacks by the goonch catfish in
India.
Goonch may weigh over 200 pounds.
Goonch may weigh over 200 pounds.
There are other large catfish that do not have the man-eater reputation, notably the largest known catfish, weighing 646 pounds, a Mekong caught in Thailand in 2005. There are numerous reports of catfish weighing hundreds of pounds, generally caught in Cambodia, Laos, Thailand or Vietnam (where they are said to face extinction).
In the US the
largest caught weighed 130 pounds.
Okay, so now you
know what areas to avoid if you don’t want to be part of the diet of the giant
catfish. But further dangers exist. We’re talking venomous catfish.
According to
LiveScience.Com there are over 1,500 species of venomous catfish, some that can
kill humans, though those in the US only deliver a bee sting. Some species,
including the popular flathead catfish, aren't poisonous at all.
I searched for
the University of Michigan study on the matter to find where venomous catfish
hang out but could only find references to the study, not the actual document.
For one other thing to worry about, there is an electric
catfish in some African rivers like the Nile that can deliver 300 to 400 volts
-- enough to stun a person.
Fakery
and Prejudice
There are said to be 3,000 types of catfish
but blue, channel and flathead are the ones we in the US go for.
But … you may be eating another sort
of catfish and not know it. Cheap Asian catfish (pangasius) has been sold in
restaurants and supermarkets as grouper,
sole, red snapper, cod and fourteen other “high value” fish. For
example, a 2015 investigation found that more than a third of 19 restaurants in Atlanta
were selling pangasius as grouper.
Unfortunately less than 1 percent
of imported seafood is inspected for mislabeling in
the United States, according to Oceana conservation advocacy group.
Okay, so let’s take a look at grandma’s
prejudice against catfish, what seems to have been the dear old gal’s problem?
In her day, perhaps it was the Biblical
injunction of Leviticus 11:10 that influenced her: “But whatever is in the seas and in the rivers that does
not have fins and scales among all the teeming life of the water, and among all
the living creatures that are in the water, they are detestable things to you
…” As far as I can tell, Jews, Muslims and Seventh Day Adventists are forbidden
to eat catfish, I don’t know who else.
In addition to the fire and brimstone
aspect, catfish was looked down upon by elitists as food of Native Americans,
African Americans, poor whites. And by some dismissed as “Catholic food.”
I have read that the early settlers,
northern Europeans, shunned catfish as beneath their culinary dignity. But
there is evidence to the contrary. Possibly the first American cookbook,
The Virginia Housewife features a catfish soup recipe for those who do not hold “a needless prejudice against
those delicious fish.”
You Are What You Eat?
Another prejudice results from viewing the
catfish as a scavenger that wallows in the mud, a bottom-feeder. So does
that prejudice extend to lobster, how about crabs? From what I’ve read it
appears that catfish are as noble as many other freshwater fish in their diets.
Several sites say young catfish feed on aquatic
insects such as dragonfly larvae, water beetles and fly larvae. Older ones
likely eat small fish, seeds,
aquatic plants, algae, crawfish
and snails.
Farm raised catfish probably eat protein
pellets made of soybeans, corn, wheat,
vitamins, minerals, and a sweetener of some sort (because fish take on the
taste of what they eat).
Of course it is said and believed that
catfish live on debris from the river-bottom. I guess the fishermen where I
lived bought into that because they would bait trot -lines with the most wretched,
foul-smelling stuff – chicken guts that had been sitting around for a week or
two.
I have to say, there was nothing could beat
being out late on a quiet moonlit night on a waterway in bayou country, running
a trot-line. There was a sort of primitive, timeless beauty to the scene. That experience
has to be one of my favorite memories of a lifetime.
Catching catfish by hand is a popular sport
in some sections of the country but I have never seen it done. If you want to
know more, check out noodling for
catfish on YouTube.
So let’s get down to the eating. Catfish is
fried, baked, stewed or preserved (dried, pickled or smoked). Where I lived, fried catfish rivaled steak as a favorite
food. It was usually served with cole slaw and hush puppies. Some people make the mistake of using a flour batter that
holds moisture in; they should use corn meal to make a flaky fish with moisture
drawn out.
Of course, modern chefs (we’re talking
celebrities, not everyday cooks) have to get fancy. How else to charge big hefty
prices for a cheap fish? Bill Clinton is said to have a taste for catfish pecan meunière as served at
Brennan’s Palace in New Orleans. Just a guess based on prowling some related
sites, I’d say expect to pay around $35 for a gussied up filet.
Interestingly, the catfish prejudice seems
to extend to cookbooks. Many that I consulted had nothing to say about this
popular southern dish. The internet to the rescue, here are a batch of
seriously great catfish recipes.
In conclusion, let
me pass along a tip that you may thank me for one day, it could keep you out of
jail: According to the Arkansas Road Stories site, catfish is defined as
"livestock" under the laws of that state -- so poaching catfish from
a farmer's pond carries with it the same penalties as cattle rustling. Looks to
me like we’re talking a Class
C felony, punishable by a fine of up to $10,000 and a prison term from three
to 10 years.

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